Here are some tips for starting seeds indoors then transplanting them into their final growing spot outside if it isn’t too cold where you live!
Harden off your seedlings
Hardening off your seedling or gradually introducing them to the outdoors can be a process that takes time, but with patience and dedication they will grow into healthy plants.
Get all of those little leaves out there in a great amount sun, wind and temperatures lower than what they were used with indoors; don’t rush this process it usually takes 2 weeks!
Picking up seedlings by the stem is a huge no-no, and it’s important to handle these delicate plants with care.
If you do accidentally bend or break one of their stems in this process, don’t worry – as long as they have other healthy looking leaves left on their branches they should be fine! In fact, picking up seedlings is handled by their leaves.
If you want to ensure the best growth and health for your plants, try planting when there’s rain in forecast, or if not then in late afternoon.
Minimizing any amount of time spent baking in the sun can help them get off on their own feet faster by minimizing exposure during this crucial step! Don’t forget to water them thoroughly on the day of planting!
Plant seedlings in the right conditions
In order to keep your seedlings healthy until they are ready for planting, put them in the shade. If you can’t easily pull up on their leaves with one hand and flip upside down as soon as possible, give it a sharp tap on bottom, or snip any damaged roots away carefully from center.
If needed, just slice peat pots gently but firmly so that an escape route is available around the edges without breaking anything!
After the pot is in the ground, you are ready to tear off any part of it that extends above your soil line.
When dry and pulled up by its roots for a while (a few hours), this will create an ideal environment where water can easily penetrate into all parts, without being too heavy or tall, so as not to block out light from reaching deep below ground level.
When it comes to tomato plants, plant at about how deep they were originally planted – but don’t forget tomatoes need extra space! Water each seedling thoroughly.
Protect your seedlings
Your seedling is established when you see healthy new growth. This may last a couple of days or it could be longer, depending on the weather and how hardy they were to begin with!
Wilted leaves and drooping stems are common symptoms that indicate transplant shock – make sure your plants are well-established in their pots, before going out into the world without protection from strong winds (especially if there’s no cover) as well any exposure possible outside for cheap row covers can come really handy here; just remember not too block up all openings.
Direct-sowing seeds
How hard can it be to put a seed in the ground? It’s not that difficult. Nature does this all of the time! As you plant your seeds, it’s important that they are planted deeply enough so the taproot can break through and get nutrients from below ground.
If not covered by at least 1 inch of soil or more per seedling, chances are good this could happen: Roots will grow long before any shoots emerge due to an absence in light for germination.
A lot depends on how much moisture is available when growing season begins; some plants need frequent watering while others prefer less rainfall throughout their lifetime cycle. A simple tip is to follow the seed packet instructions, and you should be good to go!
Gardeners who are looking to plant their seeds in hills will find that this method is the best for cucumbers, pumpkins and squash.
This type of planting requires fertile soil with good drainage so it’s important not only that you mound up some earth around these plants but also make sure there isn’t an excess moisture near them either – otherwise fungus could take over!
6 Plants to Direct-Sow
CARROTS:
Sow carrots after you know the risk of frost is over. For even distribution, mix small seeds with sand before sprinkling them in your bed and cover them 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep.
They should germinate within a month or so so keep soil evenly moist.
CORN:
Corn is a crop that can be grown in the fall and winter. The planted seeds need warm soil, above 60°F for germination to occur successfully.
If you want ensure pollination, then plan on 16 plants per block of four short rows, as wind-pollinated corn isn’t self-fertile so its best if we have some help too!
CUCURBITS:
Cucumbers, pumpkins, summer and winter squashes, and zucchini are all included in this list. After the last frost, plant the seeds. Plant 6 to 8 seeds per hill in hills.
Place the hills approximately six feet apart and add a large bucket full of compost or well-aged manure to each one.
LETTUCE:
Lettuce is a vegetable that requires very little care. Simply press the seeds into soil, wait for about six weeks in light and then thin to three inches apart when grown outdoors, or just two inches apart if planted indoors.
It loves cool weather but can take up to chilly locations with slower growing times depending on where you live!
MORNING GLORIES:
Morning glories are great for the back of your garden. They grow quickly and can be easily trained, so you don’t have to worry about them getting out of control!
In order to get this plant started off right though, it is important that before planting any seeds or seedlings make sure they have been soaked in lukewarm water until well-drained, or given a good nip with file.
Morning glory vines do not need rich soil; rather sandy loam or leaf mold would work best depending upon what kind plants we want our Morning Glory vines to produce.
PEAS:
Plant peas as soon and deeply you can. Use inoculant to speed up germination time, or just let them tough it out!
The plants are pretty resilient when grown in very cold soil (40°F) but they’ll still take a few weeks before sprouting – be patient; we all have our limits 🙂